What is the installation of Ferma Flooring Solid Hardwood?

Can solid hardwood be glued down?

No, all the solid hardwood should be nail down.

What tools will I need to install my solid hardwood?

  • Pneumatic Flooring Nailer
  • Drill with Drill Bits
  • Drill Bits
  • Hammer
  • Nail Set
  • Nails
  • Circular Saw, Miter Saw or Table Saw
  • Pry Bar

What do I need to do before having Solid Hardwood?

If we are installing a new wood floor, we will deliver the material to the job site approximately 1 week before the job start to provide time for acclimation. (This time frame may vary depending on species or conditions.) It is not recommended to store the hardwood in your garage or on a porch. You will need to prepare an area for acclimation of the hardwood. Proper acclimation reduces the amount of natural movement a wood floor will have throughout the seasons, depending on your project size usually need a 10×10 area.

When it is time for us to install, make sure to clear area of all furniture and personal items. Remember to clear countertops (appliances, mail, etc.) and remove toilet(s) if necessary or arrange for us to do the work. Draw blinds and lift or remove window treatments off the floor to protect the fabric and create a well-lit working environment. We will move furniture for you a fee, but all personal items and electronics must be removed from them before we arrive.

Can you install solid hardwood over existing solid hardwood flooring?

Installing new hardwood over older wood floors can be extremely time-saving in lieu of     removal that can become expensive, dirty, and even dangerous depending on how the original floor was installed. For instance, I will look at much older floors that were nailed into floor joists before the widespread use of subfloors. Removing can become dangerous as there’s no room to work from once floorboards are taken up. It becomes a tightrope scenario, trying to balance from one area to another unless some temporary platforms are put into place.

However, by simply nailing over an older floor, don’t expect old squeaks to go away. If they were there before starting the job, make sure permanent fixes are put into use. Often older flooring loosens from the floor joists or the sub floor. Common decking screws or ring shank nails can be used to shore up some squeaks. For more intense problems it may be wise to call in a structure engineer. Older homes without modern foundations often settle severely.Newly fastened floors over existing wood floors should be installed opposite or at a 45-degree angle to the original direction. If you’re dead set on keeping the original direction, a minimum ⅜ plywood sub floor should be installed over the older floor.

Newly fastened floors over existing wood floors should be installed opposite or at a 45-degree angle to the original direction. If you’re dead set on keeping the original direction, a minimum ⅜ plywood sub-floor should be installed over the older floor.

Is Solid Hardwood easy for a Do-It-Yourself installation? What are the tips and tricks?

Ferma Flooring solid hardwood are all Nail Down installation. It is very difficult for a Do-It-Yourself installation, but not impossible. Here are the tips:

  • Choose the Boards: Choose the hardwood species and board widths for the room installation.
  • Measure the Room: Measure the width and length of the room and multiply for the square footage. When ordering solid hardwood flooring, allow 10-15 percent extra for irregular boards and any cutting mistake.
  • Check for a Squeaky Floor: Check the sub-floor. Minimum requirements are a ¾” plywood sub-floor. Make sure there are no squeak, screw a long drywall screw into the subfloor and joist where the squeak occurs. Remove shoe-molding from the room and sweep and clean thoroughly.
  • Roll Out the Vapor Barrier Paper: Roll out strips of vapor barrier paper, allowing at least a 5” overlap and staple securely to the sub-floor. Use 15 pound tar paper or felt. It is relatively inexpensive (it’s approximate $12 a roll at a home improvement store). Mark with a pencil along the baseboards where the joists are located.
  • Start Installation: Start the installation at the longest unobstructed wall. Remove the shoe molding, and snap a chalk line ⅜” out from the baseboard (this allows for expansion in the hot, humid weather and contraction in the colder, drier weather of the hardwood flooring).
  • Place the Boards: Begin by selecting a long board to start the first row. Pick one that is straight. Align the edge of the board with the chalk line and drill pilot holes down through the hardwood plank and into the subfloor and joist. Face-nail each board at the point of every joist and set the nail with nail-set. Face-nail the entire first row because the pneumatic nail can’t get down in there. It will hit the wall and the force would push the wood against the baseboard, which would lose the ⅜” expansion and contraction. It is important to lay the first boards perpendicular to the joists which are underneath. That is important because you want a nice solid anchor. Look at the subfloor to see which way the nails and seams ran. Try to go underneath the crawl space to see how they run.
  • Hand-Nail the Roll: After the first few rows have been installed, drill pilot holes down into the tongue of each board and hand-nail the rolls until there is enough clearance for the pneumatic nail gun.
  • Cutting the Baseboard: When cutting along the baseboards, select a piece that will fit in there and leave 10 or 12 inches more and cut it off. Use the other piece on the beginning of the next row. You don’t always have to get it there real close and throw out the end piece. That will save some time and waste.
  • Fill in the Gaps: Be sensitive to the way the ends fit together. One end has a tongue and the other end has a groove – this is called end matched. Make sure to always cut the wall end of the wood so that you do not cut off the groove that fits to the tongue. If that happens, that would result in a pretty big gap. Find a piece and lay it alongside the hole and flip it over. Make sure when you make the mark to cut off the wall side, not the room side. When you make the mark, butt it up against the baseboard and then mark at the end of that tongue. That will leave a ⅜” gap for expansion and contraction when installing the piece.
  • Work Around Clearance Issue: As you near the opposite wall, clearance for the pneumatic nail gun again becomes an issue. Drill pilot holes and hand-nail the boards until there is a no long clearance for the drill and hammer. At that point, drill pilot holes down into the top of the boards and face-nail the boards, remembering to set the nails with the nail-set.  
  • Fit Last Board into Place: If there’s narrow gap for the last board, take the measurement and rip (cut lengthwise) the last board to fit into place Remember to leave a ⅜” gap at the end wall for expansion and contraction space.

What if I have radiant in-floor heating?

It’s bad for solid hardwood due to moisture. Even without radiant heat, moisture is probably the leading cause of solid hardwood callbacks. Add radiant heat, and the potential for moisture problems is greatly increased, because radiant heat dramatically exacerbates moisture fluctuations in a solid hardwood flooring.

Why do I need underlayment? Isn’t prep work enough?

Prep work is critical but underlayment is equally important for the following reasons: 1) To smooth out any undetected rough edges, small dips, or rises in the subfloor, 2) To make the floor softer to walk on, 3) To provide sound insulation, 3) To provide protection against moisture, 5) To prevent problems in the future due to settling.

What are the different types of underlayment?

There are many types of underlayment such as cork, rubber, and recycled. Some have vapor barriers but cork and rubber do not. Almost every flooring manufacturer requires a vapor barrier to protect against moisture coming up from the subfloor. Therefore, a 6 mil polyethylene sheeting is required to be placed beneath the underlayment.



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