What is the installation of Laminate Flooring at Ferma Flooring?
What kind of underlayment is approved by Ferma Flooring Laminate Flooring?
Underlayment with polyethylene film sheeting generally serves for protecting the laminate flooring from moisture damage, adds dampening and stability. It is placed on all sub-floors, including concrete sub-floors prior to the installation of the laminate flooring. Roll the underlayment over the concrete sub-floor, overlap the edges and use duct tape to keep in place and ensure a waterproof seal. Overlapping will help prevent any moisture from trickling through the edges. Also be sure to place the underlayment all the way to the wall and slightly up the wall to ensure a good seal. Do not use masking tape instead of duct tape because masking tap makes a noise when walked on and is not waterproof.
FERMA FLOORING recommended following 2 types of polyethylene film sheeting: 12 mil (3mm) EPE with one side 0.04mm polyethylene film for regular uses, and 12mil (3mm) EVA with one side 0.04mm polyethylene film for better moisture protection and sound improvement.
Can laminate flooring be installed over radiant heat?
Yes, laminate flooring can be installed over radiant heat. The reason for this is because the layers of wood that build up laminate material runs in opposite directions, creating a more stable material than solid hardwood. Unlike solid hardwood flooring, the laminate won’t expand and contract.
What kind of subfloors is approved by Ferma Flooring Laminate Flooring?
- Concrete floor
- OSB subfloors
- Floating subfloors
- Nail-down subfloor
- Nail-down subfloor
- Sleeper system
- Solid wood subfloor
What tools will I need to install my laminate flooring?
- Tapping block
- Pull bar
- Safety goggles
- Utility knife
- Tape measure
- Carpenter’s square
- Saws: table, miter, circular, hand, jigsaw
- Chalk line
- Laminate floor cleaner
- White vinegar
- Pocket plane
What do I need to do before having laminate flooring?
- Get the room ready by removing the base shoe and baseboards. Makes sure the floor is clean and level — installing over a non-level floor can lead to soft, spongy areas and may contribute to seams opening up.
- Measure the room to determine the total square footage of flooring you’ll need, then add 5 percent for waste and mistakes.
- Acclimate the flooring by bringing all the packages of flooring into the room.
- Prep door frame so that the flooring will slide underneath the trim and jamb.
Can you install laminate flooring over existing solid hardwood flooring?
Although we highly recommend that you find a professional, it is possible for you to do it yourself. Here are the tips and tricks:
- Remove Baseboard: You can completely replace the baseboards or leave existing baseboards and just install new shoe mold over the new flooring. To remove baseboards, cut the caulk joint between the wall and the trim with a utility knife.
Pull the baseboard away from the wall with a metal putty knife to prevent damaging the wall surface or tearing the drywall paper. Then use a pry bar anywhere the baseboard is nailed.
- Level and Clean: Because a floating floor is not attached to the subfloor, it is very important to make sure that the subfloor is perfectly leveled. Scrape up any remnant glue or paint with a metal putty knife.
- Check For Levelness: Use at least a 6′ level to check for variations in the subfloor.
- Acclimate the Flooring: Allow the flooring to acclimate in the room where it will be installed. Again follow the manufacturer’s directions but since floating floors are more dimensionally stable than wood, generally accepted time frame is 2-4 days.
- Determine Layout + Do the Math: Before installing, check the width of the room. Generally, installing the planks parallel to the main view of the room will make the room appear larger, so check perpendicular to this angle. Measure the finished face of one plank. Divide the room width by the plank width.
- Prep Door Frames: Under-cut door frames and any locations where shoe molding cannot be used. Flip over a spare piece of flooring on two pieces of spare underlayment and use a vibratory saw to remove the lower portions of door frames. Alternatively, you can use a hand pull or trim saw which takes a bit more technique to make a clean cut.
- Install Underlayment: Install the underlayment and be sure to tape the seams.
- Lay First Piece: Layout the first row checking to see how long the last piece will be. This piece needs to be at least 12” on the first row.
- Make First Cut: To make the first cut, flip the last board over and use a square to mark it even with the previous full piece. Then mark which side is the “drop” so you don’t cut on the wrong side of the line. Use a small circular or jigsaw make the cross cut on the “drop” side of the line. A speed square can also help you make the cut straighter than just free hand. If the dropped piece is large enough, save it for the next row.
- Snap Together: When you have all the pieces for the first row, assemble them by rocking the end tongue and groove joints together. Be sure to use even and firm pressure when pushing them together. Avoid off-angle or not flush conditions because these will weaken the joint and will cause alignment issues on the next row.
- Transitioning Doorway: When you get to a doorway, measure the length of board that needs to slider under the trim. Use a pencil to mark the top of the board in the area of the cut. Notch the board using a table saw or jigsaw. If the doorway is close to your starter row, join the boards out from under the trim. Then slide the whole assembly back under the door.
- Joining Boards: When joining the next full piece, be sure the long edge is tight but the short edge isn’t overlapping.
- Attaching Length: Rock the board down while tapping a rubber mallet against a spare piece of flooring. Depending on the thickness of the flooring, you may need to repeat this down the length of the board.
- Attaching Width: Close the gap at the small edge by tapping the opposite end again with a spare piece of flooring to prevent damaging the tongue and groove edge.
- Staggered + Systematic: Continue installing rows in a pyramid pattern. This will help keep the installation nice and straight.
- Closing Gaps: When near a wall, use a pull bar to close up the short gap. The pull bar allows you to strike with the mallet away from the wall while still transferring the force into the board.
- Under a Doorway: The next tricky spot will be the leading edge of a doorway. Since you can’t slide a board under the door with a U-shaped notch, break this section into two different boards. We chose to install the closet board first and then slide it back under the door trim using a pry bar.
- Install Baseboards: If you are installing new baseboards, use a stud finder to mark the locations of all studs around the perimeter of the room.